Well, here my tired, bony backside sits after 26K more or less from Pamplona to Puenta La Reine. Stayed last night at the Jesus y Maria hostel and can only say it was fabulous. 6 euros, big clean and well-equipped kitchen, very clean beds, sheets, pillowcases; internet washing area with free washer machines It was just great. Was sitting at the door after the walk from Larrasoana at 11:30. They opened the doors at noon. Got settled and went out to explore the city. Cecelia is finally in a good mood. She has finally found a group of pilgrims under the age of 48 (ie someone younger than her mother!) Actually there´s a great group of pilgrims under the age of 30 in our "section" of the camino. They were all out together last night watching the England World Cup match. I was with them earlier for the US and the Germany match, but I thought it best to give her some time without mumsy in tow. It was a good idea until 10:25pm or so when she still wasn´t home, and I was told the hostal closed at 10:30pm. Needless to say I was stewing. I didn´t care too much except that she´d be locked out (she wasn´t; it actually closes at 11:00p) and that she had to get up at 6am and walk 18 miles the next day. In the end, despite (or perhaps because) she was a star. She was up and out faster than any previous morning, and has a good attitude to boot.
Today by the way was the first day with sun. Not terribly warm, but it gave us a taste of what is to come. Supposedly! We walked up the famous Alto de Perdon with its windmills and Pilgrim Sculpture. The down the other side through miles and miles of wheatfields until we reached Puente de la Reine. So called, because Queen Dona Mayor commissioned a bridge to be built here to accomodate the thousands of pilgrims heading through this area. Cecelia and I decided to head to the second hostal in town, Apostol Albergue, as it was just a bit further out of town and would give us a little head-start tomorrow. Bad idea. I have Brierly´s guide book and he notes that the Apostol hostal is "on an elevated site, 400m up the road from the bridge" But he never tells you that it is one big-ass hill and climb after 26K. And paying 8€ for the privelege too (that´s double the price from the other hostal in town!) It is however, very nice, clean airy. There´s a very large laundry room and loads of places outside to hang up your washing (which at this height dries before you´ve hung it all!) It also has a pool (that I don´t dare stick my feet in with the weather we´ve been having) so I suppose it will serve its purpose well for someone, someday.
Not many crowds thus far, by the way. The hostal in Pamplona only had 48 persons in it by 6pm. More arrived, but it was not full. This place is like a beach resort hotel in the off season. Only a handful of us.
Tomorrow it is Estella, though we are tempted to stay at the Magic Place Albergue 4K before the city. Our bodies are tired and they offer massage there! We´ll see. There´s always the bus to make up those lost kilometers!
Ok, enough for now, I believe a cold beer awaits me!
Adios!