I will never look at a bottle of Rioja the same way again. 30K (20 miles) today walking from Logroño and almost every step of it through the vineyards of the Rioja. Incredible scenery was "the carrot" today. Afterall we walked 29K yesterday and it doesn't seem as it's getting any easier. Suffice to say, if you dont believe in indulgences (or insane asylums) walk 400 miles with a 26 lb pack on your back. But back to the scenery (focus on the positive) justbreath-taking. An azure sky framing rich red soil and verdant vines (how dya like them adjectives?!) mile after mile of them, occasionally sprinkled with a small grove of olive or almond trees. Sometimes wevwalk alone, sometimes together- the Swiss money-manager, the Italian holistic dancer and mamma, the Austrian farmer, the Bavarian student and the quibbling Americans. We walk slowly "piano, piano" at first in the morning, and then each settles into their own pace. We are usually led by Agidiüs, the 60-something Austrian who has become an organic farmer in his post-industrial retirement. I say post-industrial because we think he said he worked in a factory. His hands would rival Joe Namath's. Agidiüs walks fast and steady, and then, like a loyal canine, stops and waits for us. He speaks nothing but thickly accented Austrian German. So thick that even Claudio and the Bavarian have trouble understanding him. He is actually sitting next to me now as we have a beer together and watch a bit of the England v Slovenia match. He will occasionally turn to me and start speaking German. You can imagine my nods and smiles.
Cecelia has been suffering these last two days. Her knees are nit doing so well. She at least has the company of The equally-suffering Bavarian Kirsten. Yesterday they had to take the bus for half the way, and today it was a taxi with some Koreans. She is confident that tomorrow will be different as it is only a 13 mile walk. On verras.
Ok, my beer is empty, the arnica gel on my feet is wearing off and I am signing off. Go out tonight, get yerself some Rioja, and think of me- per favor!!