We were up and out not-too-early this morning. Not because of World Cup celebrating, but because we had two suffering peregrinas: Mary, still weak from nausea and etc....; Cecelia still nauseous and weak from not eating, and meinself, hobbling on a bad ankle. We slumped along 3K to the town of Arzua. An armpit of a town if ever there was one. Our Spanish friend Manu has done the Camino three times, he has been advising us as to where we should stay. He has been ¨spot on¨ with every recommendation and opinion. Ribadiso was bonita and Arzua was ugly! We did stop for our cafe con leche and croissants. We also caught a TV update on the frenzy that has taken over Spain since their World Cup win last night. We were in a tiny village, but in the big cities in Spain, they put up huge jumbotrons in the major plazas for everyone to watch the matches together. We hadn´t much of a sense of the celebration until we walked into Arzua (pop 8000) and saw all the confetti (and other not-so-tasteful remnants) strewn about the streets. The camino was quiet as well. Lots of partiers, lots of partying for pilgrims too. Our little bar was wild with excitement even though there really weren´t many Spaniards there. We were mostly excited for our Spanish family. This was such a special moment for them, like being in Red Sox nation when they finally won the World Series. There were tears. (And of course, I was crying because they were crying.) Manu grabbed 14 year old Guillermo, his only son, and hugged him like there would be no tomorrow. It was a lovely moment for father and son.
Our walk was lovely again, for the most part. Mostly through eucaplyptus groves and small villages. So small, that I hadn´t a clue where we were most of the day. We had to stop a number of times as we were a weakened lot. With one stop we were graced with a most delightful mullet. They really are everywhere, aren´t they?! Though mostly in small towns. I like to think of them as ¨Coiffures Sans Frontieres¨. A worldwide phenomenom. Too bad they weren´t patented. Someone would be very rich.
Our walk was lovely again, for the most part. Mostly through eucaplyptus groves and small villages. So small, that I hadn´t a clue where we were most of the day. We had to stop a number of times as we were a weakened lot. With one stop we were graced with a most delightful mullet. They really are everywhere, aren´t they?! Though mostly in small towns. I like to think of them as ¨Coiffures Sans Frontieres¨. A worldwide phenomenom. Too bad they weren´t patented. Someone would be very rich.
We passed a small village that was just inundated with huge hydrangea bushes. I´ve never seen anything like it- even in Nantucket. Giant white and blue balls. (hmmmm...there´s a joke there I'm sure)We walked past over a hundred yards of hydrangeas only to arrive at a crossroad with a hundred more yards in each direction. Amazing.
Well, tonight is our last night in an albergue. Tomorrow we will be in Santiago. In a hotel, with our own bathroom. Whoa. The walk into the city will be very strange indeed, I imagine. Cecelia and I have been walking for 4 weeks. She has had it with walking. Me? Not so much. I told them I might walk to the airport on Thursday. They laughed, but didn´t disbelieve me. Mary says I just want more publicity for my Gordita Camp. But it really is strange to think that it will be all over tomorrow.
We won´t get up early, and we won´t walk in with the moving mass of pilgrims that heads down from Monte del Goza to make the noon pilgrims´mass. We will have our own pace and really take our time; we have a reservation afterall!
And now...Cerveza time! Adios amigos!
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